Corrugations
Nail disorder - Horizontal wavy ridges caused by uneven growth due to illness or injuries.
Furrows
Nail disorder - vertical lines
... [Show More] down the nail plate caused by nutrition, injury or illness.
Leuconchia
White spots on the nail caused by injury to the base of the nail
Onychorrhexis
Split or brittle nails caused by injury, careless filing, vitamin deficiencies, illness, and frequent exposure to strong chemicals.
Hang Nails
Caused by dry cuticle and carlessness in removing the cuticle
Onychomycosis Unguium
Nail fungus caused by a parasite. very contagious
Onychocryptosis
Ingrown nail caused by filing the nail too much, or tight fitting shoes.
Verruca
Warts caused by infectious virus
Onycholysis
lifting of the nail without shedding
5 Basic Nail Shapes
squoval, round, oval, pointed, square
Toner
used on pre-lightened hair to achieve pale and delicate colors after decoloring
Conditioning filler
protein conditioner that will equalize porosity and fill the holes
Color filler
used to replace the missing primary colors
Oxidative
Demi- permenant and permenant color
Non-oxidative color
temporary - physical change only. Semi-permanent.
Double process blonde
decolorizing and toning
What affects lightener working time?
Melanin - the more there is the longer the process. Scalp processes faster because of body heat
Lift
lightening by breaking up the melanin to decolorize hair
Deposit
means that product only deposits color because it does not contain ammonia or high alkalinity necessary to lift
developer
oxidizing agent H2O2 when mixed with ammonia it will break up the melanin and give ability to lift or lighten
Semi-permanent color
non-oxidative, temporary color, stains cuticle, fades in each shampoo.
Demi-permanent color
oxidative, deposit only, deepens or changes the tone
Permanent color
lightens and deposits at the same time. more alkaline ingredients, penetrates the cortex, can't shampoo out
Primary colors
Red, Blue, Yellow
Brown
unequal combo of primary color
Black
Equal parts of primary colors
Warm tones
red, orange, yellow
Cool tones
blue, green, violet
Neutral tones
perfect combo of both cool and warm tones
Eumelanin
Brown to black pigments
Pheomelanin
Red to yellow pigments
Coarse texture
largest diameter, greatest amount of melanin, processing time and lift is affected
medium texture
has a balance of melanin, typically no problems
Fine texture
smallest diameter, least amount of melanin, more susceptible to darker drabber results, more prone to damage
Alkaline Wave
AKA cold waves - ammonium thioglycolate (thio and ammonia). ph - 9.0-9.6, no tension, solution causes hair to swell, processes at RT
Acid Wave
AKA heat waves- glycerol monothioglycolate. ph - 7.8-8.2. will require heat to speed processing
Endothermic
required added heat source
Exothermic
self heating
Croguiqnole
Wrapping technique from ends to scalp, causes tighter curls on ends. also referred to as "overlapping method"
Spiral
hair is not perpendicular to rod - spiraled from top-bottom of rod
On base placement
hair is held 45* forward
1/2 off base placement
hair is held 90* straight up
Off base placement
hair is held 45* down
End paper techniques
double flat, bookend, cushion wrap
Lanthionization
hydroxide relaxer removes 1 of the sulfer atoms converting from a disulfide bond converting it into a lanthionine bond, which is only 1 sulfur atom. can never be reformed [Show Less]