Blunt Haircut
-zero degree elevation
-horizontal, diagonal, or rounded cutting line
Fashion Layer Haircut
-180 degree elevation
Graduated
... [Show More] Layer Haircut
-45 degree elevation
-traveling guideline
Uniform-Layered Haircut
-90 degrees
-vertical cutting line
-traveling guide
Long Layered Haircut
-180 degrees
-shorter layers at the top and increasingly longer layers toward the
perimeter
Symmetrical
same on each side
Asymmetrical
not identical on each side
palming your shears
removing the thumb from the thumb grip, leaving the ring & little fingers in the grip & finger rest
which finger controls the movable blades
thumb
why is texture important in hair cutting
it's important because the different hair types respond differently to the same type of cutting. Some hair types need more layers, and some need more weight.
stationary guideline
guideline that does not move
traveling guideline
-used when creating layered or graduated haircuts
-The guideline moves with you as
you work through the haircut.
-you take a small slice of the previous subsection and move it to the next position, or subsection, where it becomes your new guideline.
Horizontal lines
-these are parallel to the horizon or the floor.
-build weight
-They are used to create one-length and low elevation haircuts and to add weight
Vertical lines
-these are usually described in terms of up and
down and are perpendicular to the floor
-remove weight to create graduated or layered haircuts and are used with higher elevations
Diagonal lines
-these are between horizontal and vertical.
-They have a slanting or sloping direction
-used to create fullness in a haircut and to blend long layers into short layers.
Curved & Straight Lines
basic lines used in haircutting
Angles
360=full circle
45=less than 90 degrees
90=1/4 circle
180=half circle
basic rule in cutting curly hair
-With curly or wavy hair, less tension is better, because a lot of tension will result in the hair
shrinking even more than usual as it dries.
-anywhere from ½ to 2 inches or more it shrinks
-always leave the length longer than the desired end result.
Different types of Texturizing
Techniques w/ Shears:
~Point cutting
~Notching
~Free-Hand Notching
~Slithering
~Slicing
~Carving
Techniques w/ Razor:
~removing weight
~Free-hand slicing
Texturizing with Thinning Shears and Razor:
~Removing bulk (thinning)
~Removing weight from the ends.
~Scissor-over-comb with thinning shears.
~Free-hand slicing with razor
~Razor-over-comb
~Razor rotation
Closed pin curl
produce waves that get smaller toward the end
Open pin curl
produce even, smooth waves and uniform curls
Facial Shapes
Diamond
Oval
Round
Inverted triangle
Triangle
Oblong
Square
Diamond Face
Increase the fullness across the jawline and forehead while keeping the hair close to the head at the cheekbone line. Avoid hairstyles that lift away from the cheeks or move back from the hairline on the sides near the ear area
Oval Face
any hairstyle will fit this face shape
Round Face
A hairstyle that has height or volume on top and closeness or no volume at the sides
Inverted triangle Face
Style the hair close to the head with no volume. A bang or fringe is recommended. Gradually increase the width of the silhouette as you style the middle third of the shape in the cheekbone area and near the ears, and keep the silhouette at its widest at the jaw and neck area
Triangle Face
A hairstyle that has volume at the temples and some height at the top. You can disguise the narrowness of the forehead with a soft bang or fringe
Oblong Face
Keep the hair fairly close to the top of the head. Add volume on the sides to create the illusion of width. The hair should not be too long, as this will elongate the oblong shape of the face. Chin length styles are most effective for this facial type
Square Face
Soften the hair around the temples and jaw by bringing the shape or silhouette close to the head form. Create volume in the area between the temples and jaw by adding width around the ear area
What comb is used with how tools
Hard Rubber Comb because it will not melt when touched by a hot tool.
Who invented the thermal iron, and in what year?
Marcel Grateau (AKA Francois Marcel) in 1923
Sculptured Curl
pin curls sliced from a shaping and formed without lifting the hair from the head.
Ridge Curl
Pin curls placed immediately behind or below a ridge to form a wave.
Skip Waves
Two rows of ridge curls, usually on the side of the head.
Cascade Curl
Also known as stand-up curls; pin curls fastened to the head in a standing position to allow the hair to flow upward and then downward.
Barrel Curl
Pin curls with large center openings, fastened to the head in a standing position on a rectangular base
Parts of Pin Curl
Base
Stem
Circle
What type of roller base gives the firmest curl?
On base
Off Base
for medium volume
Half Off Base
for the least volume
Hard Press
removes 100 percent of the curl, is accomplished by applying the thermal pressing comb twice on each side of the hair.
Soft Press
which removes about 50 to 60 percent of the curl, is accomplished by applying the thermal pressing comb once on each side of the hair.
Hair root & Structure
Sturcture:
1.Hair Follicle
2. Hair bulb
3. Dermal papilla
4. Arrector pili muscle
5. Sebaceous gland
-is the part of the hair located below
the surface of the epidermis (outer layer of the skin).
Hair Follicle
-is the tube-like depression or pocket in the skin or scalp that contains the hair root.
-all over the body, with the exception of the
palms of the hands and the soles of the feet
-extends downward from the epidermis into the dermis (the inner layer of skin), where it surrounds the dermal papilla.
-Sometimes more than one hair will grow from a single follicle.
Hair Bulb
is the lowest part of a hair strand. It is the thickened, club-shaped structure that forms the lower part of the hair root. The lower part of the hair bulb fits over and covers the dermal papilla. [Show Less]